EW.com: It is a truth universally acknowledged that any truly great Jane Austen adaptation also needs fantastic Regency fashion.
When it came to 2020's Emma, starring Anya Taylor-Joy and Johnny Flynn, Alexandra Byrne was there to create an accurate and eye-catching wardrobe befitting Austen's most impudent heroine.
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There have been so many articles posted on here that talk about the costumes from Emma, and I think I've commented on every single one. The designer created such a delightful and fun palette of colors, silhouettes, and details that had its own arc throughout the course of the film. For me, I feel like my (incorrect) expectations of the time period always include big skirts, so it's almost a surprise to see the Regency period rendered to (more or less) accuracy and to feel surprised by the empire waists and slender skirts. I also think it's really interesting to consider that this time period was the first time that fashion magazines became a thing, and to think about how the culture of fashion was rapidly changing and being disseminated throughout this period. That layer of regional or cultural communication is something that is not often considered when designing period costumes.
I love Emma, I absolutely do. I have commented on previous articles about Emma this year too, much like Bridget. One thing that stuck with me since the last time I read an article about Emma is how Alexandra Byrne sourced dyes that would have been used in the Regency Period to use on the Emma costumes, and I was thinking about that all through this article as well. Byrne emphasizes color as one of the best storytelling devices, and I think she really took that step to tell the story accurately by making the method of costume construction (specifically dying), accurate to the period. I also did not know that this period was when fashion magazines really began in earnest, so it makes a lot of sense that Emma, who would have already been with the evolving fashions because she is well-to-do, would be even more so with widespread influencers like fashion mags.
I haven't seen Emma, but this was still a very interesting read. I really liked how Alexandra Byrne spoke about handling the overcostuming issue that often comes along with period pieces. She said she wanted the design to be grounded in reality, and gave the main character 3 dresses, and based on all the other elements of the design, such as jewelry, gloves, coats, etc. she was able to change the design to make it look new. I also find it interesting how she created different palettes for different seasons. It seems like an obvious thing to do, but it's something that I think we do more subconsciously. Byrne knew the main character was up to date with fashion, so she made it a conscious decision for the character's palette to change. It seems like there are a bunch of little details to this design, and I would love to watch it now.
I haven't seen Emma yet but Byrne's almost coming full circle in her career is fascinating to me. That after all this time becoming acclaimed for her work she gets to return to the time period where she got her start and see the true transformation and progression of her work is something we're lucky to get to witness. I have to admit that while I like period pieces I was at no point drawn to seeing Emma until after reading this article. The carefulness of Byrne's decisions based on history and the text and the character's personality compel me to watch or read and try and understand her decisions. The way the designers talk about color is so intriguing. That they use the costumes and scenery colors to create a sense of belonging to the space and to the group of people is something I had never considered before. I also enjoy the humanity she brings to the character through the reuse of costume pieces. This mimics a real person without a limitless wardrobe and gives the audience a better understanding of how Emma herself would put together her outfits gazing into her closet.
I love reading everything I can about this film's costume design. I think that Alexandra Byrne really had a great balance in this film where you admire the costumes but they also contribute to the film and don't take any attention away. They are noticed when they need to be and they become part of the world in other moments. I think the not about over costuming is extremely important to recognize. Unless they are extremely rich it really doesn't make much sense for a character to wear something different for every single scene. Plays are different because there are way less scenes. Having a working wardrobe of the character makes a lot more sense and can be just as exciting as it is styled well. Think the oscar will probably come down to either her or Ann Roth, but Ann Roth just won the BAFTA so she might have a step ahead.
I loved reading this interview, it was very insightful to how there can be a balance between historical accuracy and storytelling. As someone who adores fashion history, finding the line between historical accuracy and costume utility is quite odd and subjective. It truly depends on the story you are telling. Something that I really found quite interesting in this article is the costume designer’s eagerness to use bonnets and incorporate era accurate hair. As the article states. A lot of people are weary of incorporating bolder fashion from past eras due to the perception that modern audiences “won’t be able to understand it/will not take it seriously”. Which to me is a bit insulting to the audience. I also think that historical dramas would benefit highly of allowing themselves to indulge in the era they are set in. The lazy modernization of these eras is quite tiring to see. Especially when it comes to hair. Because of how popular loose hair is in the contemporary era, a lot of films incorporate that to their stories set before. And to me that is such a step down to the fun elaborate hairstyles there has been.
I love process articles and reading about the way that designers get to their final realized designs. I also love reading about how collaborating with other designers and members of the production team worked on a show to show basis, because it is always different. Reading how Alexandra Byrne went through the process of creating Emma’s wardrobe for throughout the whole year in the film was super cool. And reading about how she was thinking about colors and how the relationships between colors can reflect the relationships between people and or the spaces that they are in. I think that that process of designing is very interesting. I also relate really hard with the designing through colors, or just thinking a lot about color and how that will affect how the audience will view that story. I also really like reading about how she worked with the director for their vision and also with the production designer, especially when it came to colors in the space and how she could work with or against those with the different costumes she was designing for that space.
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