CMU School of Drama


Tuesday, January 31, 2023

Vyjayanthimala to Rekha to ‘Kasturba’: Bhanu Athaiya marked before-after in Indian costume design

theprint.in/features: What is common between the iconic orange-coloured, glittery ‘Amrapali saree’ worn by Vyjayanthimala for the 1966 movie and the starched, cotton sarees worn by Rohini Hattangadi as Kasturba Gandhi in Gandhi (1982)? It’s Bhanu Athaiya whose nimble hands envisaged, designed and made the sarees iconic. The work of India’s first Oscar winner, in costume design category, is on display at Bikaner House in New Delhi. At the exhibition titled The Legacy of Bhanu Athaiya, the Amrapali saree reminds visitors how it is both a work of art and an iconic moment in the fashion history of 1960s Bollywood.

2 comments:

Sukie Wang said...

This amazing. It is so exciting to see BIPOC people winning Oscar awards. These pieces are truly artworks that will remind everyone seeing it the fascinating culture that it represents and its meaning to people who owns these culture. The amount of detail that these pieces contain in reference to the culture is truly fascinating and impressive. The forms and shapes curates a scene for the audience which does not only enhance audience’s understanding in the story but also enhance the idea that they are also in the story. With all of these pieces, I can imagine the person wearing them dancing and talking to their friends while celebrating festivals. Costume is such a big part in any film or production. It allows audience to see what the designer is trying to see and interpreted in their own ways. The magic of costume design extends beyond the character and into audiences.

Sydney de Haan said...

Bhanu is a designer who I was only exposed to because of he Oscar win but this article does a very good job of exposing me to a lot more for works. I honestly wish I could’ve seen you as posted. See if they have a virtual exhibit for that’s online so I can experience bar for Costume work. I’ve always admired Bollywood fashion and how colorful lifer so many of the costumes are. They’re truly stunning pieces of art with some of the most intricate embroidery that just glitters and shines. Bhanu seems to have been a driving force for Bollywood and I could definitely see how so many of her films became so it’s the windshield for fashion throughout decades. On top of that how deep she goes when she knows she hast to research some thing traveling to a village just to see how they draped their dupattas.