CMU School of Drama


Saturday, February 18, 2012

Tapered Sliding Dovetails


Popular Woodworking Magazine: For the Krenov-style cabinet I built for the April 2012 issue of Popular Woodworking Magainze I used tapered sliding dovetails to join the case.

6 comments:

Will Gossett said...
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Will Gossett said...

This is a clever way to make a dovetail joint, and an easy-to-understand video. Although it may be somewhat time consuming to create the tapered edge of the dovetail, it will probably be worth time time saved in frustration from a binding standard dovetail joint. The only thing I saw that wasn't completely clear was how one could guarantee the same degree of taper on both the tail and the socket. I know the same shim is used on both, but it seems to me that when such detail is put into tapering the joint, more attention should be placed into how far along the guide the shim is placed since it could increase the difference in angle between the tail and the socket if it is not placed in the same relative location when cutting the socket and the tail.

kerryhennessy said...

This seems like a relatively simple way to make a dovetail joint however there were point that I got a little bit confused I wish that the video actually showed the process in action instead of just static pictures. This seems like a good way to ensure that the piece turns out beautifully and the joint remains inconspicuous and stable. I would be interested to try this method sometimes.

AJ C. said...

I agree with will. I think that this is an easy way to make a tapered dovetail, except they should help emphasize the taper and how to create the taper of the dovetail in order for the angle to not be too great or too small. It would be nice to see a complete video of them completing the joint rather than a description with video. Images with details and callouts with text descriptions might be easier than this video.

Wyatt said...

Will, I agree with you. I think this is a really clever joint. As far as your question about the shim: as long as it is both squared up to the edge of your board on both pieces and your guide “fence” for the mortise is the same size as your board, it should be fine. I also think this joint is potentially stronger than a normal sliding dovetail because the joint can only come apart in 1 direction. the only catch would be that you would have to worry about gravity - accounted for in the taper that acts against gravity

ranerenshaw said...

This is an interesting take on the process of the dovetail joint. Although the video was not quite clear in all of its instructions. It would have been helpful to see the actual process rather than stills of the process.This appears to be a very efficient methodology for the joint, although i am not exactly familiar with the dovetail joint. This method seems like something i would employ in a situation that i need it.