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popularwoodworking.com: Heather Trosdahl’s article in the Dec. 2012 issue, “Parquetry Tabletop,” requires shop-sawn veneers for the best results. In case sawing one’s own veneer is a technique with which you’re unfamiliar, she’s shared her methods.
3 comments:
Rachael S
said...
I didn't know about the 1/8" rule. That's really useful. I'm a little confused though, it's never explicitly stated if it's for a bandsaw or a table saw. A band saw is mentioned later in the article, so I'm going to assume that. I installed a new bandsaw blade on the bandsaw that my buggy organization has, but didn't have an easy way to measure tension like this. I'm going to go do that later, now. But isn't the tension going to be affected by how high the guard is?
Band saws are underrated, I think; especially in scene shops where arguably the powerhouse tools are the table saw and the miter/radial saws. Resawing wood (which is what this article is really talking about, right?) is a task we rarely think about in theatre. Is 2x4 too thick? Great, let's use 1x4 then. Thinner than that and it's maso or lauan or patching compound and paint treatments. hardwood that isn't structural, like veneer treatments, we've been faking for centuries. Nevertheless, I think this shows another irregular use of a band saw that can illustrate the tool's versatility.
The flip to this article and the above is, while being able to resaw your own veneer could someday be a valuable skill, I don't see needing this particular skill in the building of scenery as, more often than not, we can purchase a glue-backed (or some such) veneer if we find ourselves needing veneer (to hide plywood grain, etc.).
It strikes me that the photograph in this article for making your own veneers is of the bandsaw. I love a good bandsaw, and they are hard to find, and even harder to find someone who really knows how set one up and to use it, as Ms. Trosdahl clearly does. However, I have to point out, that while learning how to re-saw on a bandsaw is totally rad and we should all do it more, the really tricky part of this process is the planing. With a sharp enough blade of the appropriate size and some real diligence in your set up, even a pretty shitty bandsaw can be coaxed into ripping 3/32" planks. Planing that 3/32" plank into a smooth, usable veneer? Different story. If you're using a power finish planer, those better be fresh blades, and, depending on the type of wood, good luck with the snipe that will undoubtedly treat the leading edge of your plank much like a wood chipper might. I agree with Ms. Trosdahl that the much more manageable choice for finishing is the cabinet scraper, the proper sharpening and use of which should only take us a year or so to get a handle on. A year well spent, no doubt, but a year that definitely deserves a bullet point under the heading "Planing Your Veneers."
3 comments:
I didn't know about the 1/8" rule. That's really useful. I'm a little confused though, it's never explicitly stated if it's for a bandsaw or a table saw. A band saw is mentioned later in the article, so I'm going to assume that. I installed a new bandsaw blade on the bandsaw that my buggy organization has, but didn't have an easy way to measure tension like this. I'm going to go do that later, now. But isn't the tension going to be affected by how high the guard is?
Band saws are underrated, I think; especially in scene shops where arguably the powerhouse tools are the table saw and the miter/radial saws. Resawing wood (which is what this article is really talking about, right?) is a task we rarely think about in theatre. Is 2x4 too thick? Great, let's use 1x4 then. Thinner than that and it's maso or lauan or patching compound and paint treatments. hardwood that isn't structural, like veneer treatments, we've been faking for centuries. Nevertheless, I think this shows another irregular use of a band saw that can illustrate the tool's versatility.
The flip to this article and the above is, while being able to resaw your own veneer could someday be a valuable skill, I don't see needing this particular skill in the building of scenery as, more often than not, we can purchase a glue-backed (or some such) veneer if we find ourselves needing veneer (to hide plywood grain, etc.).
It strikes me that the photograph in this article for making your own veneers is of the bandsaw. I love a good bandsaw, and they are hard to find, and even harder to find someone who really knows how set one up and to use it, as Ms. Trosdahl clearly does. However, I have to point out, that while learning how to re-saw on a bandsaw is totally rad and we should all do it more, the really tricky part of this process is the planing. With a sharp enough blade of the appropriate size and some real diligence in your set up, even a pretty shitty bandsaw can be coaxed into ripping 3/32" planks. Planing that 3/32" plank into a smooth, usable veneer? Different story. If you're using a power finish planer, those better be fresh blades, and, depending on the type of wood, good luck with the snipe that will undoubtedly treat the leading edge of your plank much like a wood chipper might. I agree with Ms. Trosdahl that the much more manageable choice for finishing is the cabinet scraper, the proper sharpening and use of which should only take us a year or so to get a handle on. A year well spent, no doubt, but a year that definitely deserves a bullet point under the heading "Planing Your Veneers."
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