CMU School of Drama


Thursday, September 28, 2017

Dressed for ‘Undressed’

Pittsburgh Magazine - October 2017 - Pittsburgh, PA: Christian Dior once said: “Real elegance is everywhere, especially in the things that don’t show.”

In art, it’s basically all or nothing in one particular area: The human form is either dressed or undressed — as in nude.

During all of my years of covering art, I’ve really never had to deal with anything else. Until now.

14 comments:

Unknown said...

I absolutely love the Frick Pittsburgh. I was given this museum as my first project for Susan Tsu's design class, and so I have visited the current exhibit: Lack and Luxury, which was fairly small for the Frick, but still had a lot of valuable information about how lace has changed over time. This new exhibit: Undressed, sounds absolutely amazing, and today in class Susan Tsu mentioned it and showed us lots of pictures from the Heel Exhibit that came to the Frick. This article has only made me even more excited to get out to more museums in Pittsburgh and visit the Frick again, but after October 21, which is when this new exhibit opens.

Kyrie Bayles said...

This is a fascinating exhibit. It is not often that we think about the items of clothing that lie so close to our skin and support and enhance the clothing that we wear. I appreciate that that exhibit goes so far as to show work of modern couture designers and artists and the shift that underwear has made into essentially outer-wear in the last century. This exhibit is one that many should be able to learn from and enjoy, not just those who are costume designers or those who are fashion obsessed. All of us the theatrical field should make the time to see this show and learn about these pieces as many of us will have to work with various kinds of fashion understructures and having even just a small understanding of these items will help us to know better how various elements will affect them and make us better collaborator’s overall.

Sarah C. said...

I think it's so fun to look back at undergarments over the years and compare them to what we wear now. Underwear has gone from being so structural, more like cages and big structures to hold up the clothes than just a protective or separation layer between us and the garment. As time goes on, the underwear we see not only evolves with fashion but with how that fashion reflects society - so indirectly, the underwear of a time can reveal the social and societal ideals not only of beauty but of decency and propriety. Corsets and skirt cages existed to support heavy long skirts and tiny waisted blouses, but it reflects the Victorian ideal for women of being subservient and severely moderated - ie, a corset preventing heavy breathing let alone eating, or a caged skirt that makes clothing restrictive and heavy and better suited to sitting than walking around town or doing active things. Men, too, have underwear trends - in France in the 1600s, they wore corsets, too!

I definitely will be going to see this exhibit, not just for the education but to see how these things were made and how i can use the forms they show and their designs in my own work.

Mary Emily Landers said...

The history of clothing is so interesting, and most people neglect to think about the history of what goes underneath them. I think it is such a smart idea for the Frick to host this exhibit, especially followed by "Lace and Luxury: Examples from The Frick Pittsburgh's Costume Collection". By having the two paired hand in hand it allows for people to make the connection between undergarments for necessity (such as corsets in the Renaissance era) and luxury (such as modern appeal tp undergarments). Both exhibits showcase how unique undergarments are and how they have shaped and changed over the years. I cannot wait to go see this exhibit and explore the ways that undergarments have changed through the years. I think it would benefit me as a artist as well as provide me with more extensive knowledge on the history behind clothing.

Alexander Friedland said...

One thing that struck me about the article is how underwear styles tell about morality and social standards in Western Civilization but neglect to talk about other culture’s ideas of underwear. The art exhibit is probably only referring to Western Civilization but it is still a cool concept to question, especially in cultures where there is a lot less clothing worn. Another thing that struck me was when the article said “...’Undressed’ might seem almost chaste by today’s standards. It’s subtly sexy, not salacious; more educational than erotic.” I was in somewhat disagreement. I think today some people still find ‘getting naked’ to be an uncomfortable, taboo and sexy thing. Obviously, social standards are a lot more relaxed than they used to be in regards to underwear and such things but still not completely gone. The last thing that struck me Undressed is the first of its kind. It makes sense since for so long underwear has been a taboo topic but I feel this idea has been thrown away enough that it would have happened sooner. Underwear tells a lot about a person and an economic status so I feel like this would important findings to present.

Kimberly McSweeney said...

I think this exhibit is so clever. You never would have even thought to examine the science and fashion of underwear throughout history unless someone had an idea like this. I can’t wait to go and learn all about how people interacted with the base-layer of clothing throughout time. I think it’s a little funny some people are embarrassed by this being a topic in an exhibit, especially with all the nude art, sculpture, video work, and other exhibits I have seen in my humble time spent in museums. Underwear is literally something everyone touched every day of their lives (I hope) and should be on the same conversational level as any other form of clothing. I would also like to know what cultures this exhibit examines throughout the time periods as it would be interesting to see comparisons not only between class and time, but also place in regards to what was needed for functionality.

Tessa Barlotta said...

I had no idea this exhibition was coming to Pittsburgh I'm so excited! Understructures are an amazing part of fashion and the delicacy and complexity with which they are constructed always astounds me. Each serves a specific purpose for fashion while at the same time being altered by the wearer for practicality and utility. Hiding pockets in the structures, enforcing distance and defining your space against those around you, and displaying your wealth an status. The undergarments, especially of the aristocracy were works of art and the detail, embroidery, and delicacy with which they were constructed was breathtaking. I also think it's a great choice to have the exhibition reflect undergarments evolution through time and their budding acceptance to be worn (depending on context of course) as an outer garment as well as an inner one. It's amazing that such a collection is coming to Pittsburgh so soon! I can't wait!

Liz said...

This is such a fascinating and important exhibition in that not only does it show the delicacy and nuances in underwear design throughout the history, but it also brings this part of costuming out from its limbo status. Underwear, in some sense, is like everyday substance. It’s absolutely necessary and important; it is the closest garment to one’s skin; it means intimacy, privacy, and even security; it is so integral to one’s body that one tends to forget the art of creating and designing underwear clothing. Having been working on several period shows at CMU, I’d become familiar to corsets, bustles, stockings and petticoats indirectly through helping actors put them on, talking to designers about how to take care of these clothes, and storing them properly in rehearsal rooms. I’m curious to learn about the actual history or underwear and witness the beauty of this literally hidden art. The name of this exhibition is also very intriguing. I’m so excited that it will be held in Pittsburgh and will definitely go and see myself!

Lauren Miller said...

The history of undergarments in relation to fashion is absolutely fascinating. Women’s undergarments, in particular, have witnessed major transformations throughout time. The shape of corsets changed every decade to reflect the ideal body shape of the time. They were worn until the early 1920s – when their shape forced the body into a “boyish” figure – pushing down the breasts and minimizing curves. In America, the first bras weren’t mass produced until the late twenties and early thirties. They were nothing like what we wear today. The fifties and sixties saw the social requirement of the girdle (think spandex but worse) which is necessary for the “vintage body type”. Even thinking about the last decade betrays the speedy evolution of undergarments. We have seen the move from push-up bras and underwire begin to move into soft cup or simply fabric bralettes. Sports bras allow women a more active life – rather than restricting the body into an attractive shape. Not wearing a bra has grown in popularity for those who can do it. This diverse and fast-paced arena of fashion shouldn’t be ignored.

Dani Mader said...

I really want to see this. Wow, some of the photos of the pieces are so cool and really make you think about he hows and whys of them. Undergarment history is rarely talked about but one of the must present and constant parts of fashion. They are always there. The shapes and silhouettes and the effects that they made are all different with each era and style. But why? why was that culture looking to make hips insanely wide or waists incredibly small? And then there's now where some people don't wear any type of undergarment at all. I think this exhibit and topic is important, not just for costume and fashion people, but anyone interested in art and the human form. Because looking at the shapes and sizes and details tells us what features were important and what was valued or hidden. its a part of history we skip over and its time to address it.

Lily Kincannon said...

I cannot wait for this exhibit to come to the Frick. I think it is so interesting that the artist chose to focus on the layer between being naked and being clothed. I love that the taboo of being in underwear is being challenged. When Manet's Olympia came out, the public was in an uproar over the outrageous painting of a nude yet harsh looking model, that practically glared down on any viewer. However, over time, Manet was able to normalize breaking the conventions of a female nude, so I am very excited to see how the Frick will do, normalizing undergarments.

Anabel Shuckhart said...

I am so excited to go see this exhibit at the Frick! I have always been so fascinated by undergarments as they relate to clothing and costume design, and I have always thought that they are a great way to differentiate between different periods and eras of garments. So many periods have been defined by the way in which we have chose to shape our bodies. In the late 1800's, women wore bustles and corsets to get one shape, and flatteners were worn in the 1920's to get a totally different shape. Through undergarments you can see the types of body images that were most valued at the time, and I think that that can tell you a lot about the values of society and culture at the time as well. I like that this article brought up the cultural phenomenons of both the Victorian era and present day, because I think it highlighted well the idea that clothing and undergarments can tell you so much about a society. And how true, we have come so far in the past hundred years when once looking at underwear would be scandalous, and it is now a huge event to watch the televised Victoria's Secret Fashion Show each year.

Emma Patterson said...

I am fascinated by the progression of fashion. I love that we develop the function of our clothing out of necessity, but also the aesthetic of our clothing to feed and reflect the sides of us that reach for individuality and uniqueness. The way that we begin to alter our bodies to fit society at their very base is a striking reality to me, and I am excited to explore this through the exhibit. It is not often that we stop to consider the “why” of everyday objects, and studies and exhibits such as this one force us to take the time to do so. We are able to examine our society at is core values when we consider the vessels of daily function and societal norms. I am fascinated to learn the techniques by which designers can reflect the standards we uphold.

BinhAn Nguyen said...

I think this is a really cool idea for an exhibit - to showcase something that is a stigma and, throughout history, has created to be hidden. I really do think there is a beauty to what is underneath and showing the skeleton behind the famous silhouettes that we all know puts a perspective on the artistry and design behind such things. It brings attention to something beautiful that would have otherwise not been showcased. I think the design of undergarments is gorgeous and the Victoria Secret Fashion Show is the height of this. Its a whole showcase that puts underwear at the forefront. In this show underwear IS the art, not what is underneath. There is an obvious artistry in each of the pieces and wings that takes years to cultivate. Though Victoria Secret is able to do this for the modern world, I think it is great that the Frick is doing the same for the undergarments of the past.